I had been at Eleven Madison Park for two years-two years of hard work and astounding growth-and it was time for something different. In November 2016, I was ready for a change. She had an experience with the country’s wine much like what Ben experienced years before with the native ingredients of Australia: excitement, amazement, and awe that these world-class wines were being made in Australia’s own backyard, and confusion as to why local sommeliers didn’t seem to care. In 2017, Ben Shewry hired a young(ish) American woman to run his beverage program at Attica. He helped teach the world-and perhaps most importantly, Australians-that these ingredients could be just as grand and delicious as the international ingredients and techniques that had up until then defined fine dining. Marron, kangaroo, emu, wallaby, and jumbuck became his proteins of choice. He became a great champion for these ingredients-fruits, vegetables, herbs, and spices with names like lilly pilly, desert lime, quandong, lemon myrtle, and gumbi gumbi. He was amazed by the flavors and textures of the native ingredients of Australia, and perplexed by the lack of interest Australians took in them. A young chef, he came to study, train, and learn. Ben Shewry moved from his home of New Zealand to Australia about 20 years ago.
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